Slow boat to Korea: Act One

Eyes East is once again blogging from Seoul. I'd like to say I'm here for a deeper look at Korean culture or to gaze into the future through the lens of the most wired country on Earth, really, I'm here for the cash. I'm teaching at Yonsei University again, and I'll be here for most of January.

We'll get to the day-to-day details a few posts hence. First, a bit about getting here, in three acts:

Act One: Dalian to Shenyang to Dalian to Shenyang....and finally we have a visa

Getting a visa for South Korea means going to Shenyang. I hate Shenyang. There is no getting around this fact. Maybe it's because I only go there for unpleasant business. In my mind, Shenyang brings together all the elements of a large city without ever gaining the benefit of so many people in close quarters. Think of Beijing without the culture, the Olympics, the foreign influence or any reason whatsoever to go there.

But as I said, it's the only place within striking distance of Dalian to get the visa I need. So I go. Usually I come back the same night. Eight hours on a bus means I finished two books and started a third in the two weeks it took to get my documents. David Sedaris does make the trip easier.

Inside the embassy, I have slight variations of this conversation with embassy staff at least three times, over a period of two weeks:

"Mr. Amico, we need your contract." "I gave you my contract." "I know, but we need your information." "What kind of information?" "Your personal information." "What kind of personal information?" "It's in your contract." "I gave you my contract." "I know. But we need you to call your university." "What should I tell them?" "They need to send us your information." "What kind of information?" "A fax." "What is in the fax?" "Your personal information." "What kind of personal information?" "They will know." "Can you tell me?" "No."

And outside, Shenyang is a pile of gray ice covered in dirty snow.

Tomorrow, Act Two: Slow boats and slower money. Please do not tap on the glass. Stay tuned.

Before: Back alley Japanese BBQ: Pure joy on a stick | After: Slow boat, slower money. Act Two.